Sparkles and Pretending: How to dress like a Tenenbaum »

Wes Anderson is a detail guy. Unlike most filmmakers, the director of 1998’s critically worshiped Rushmore oversees all aspects of his films, right down to the last bit of clothing. Wardrobe, in fact, plays a big role in Anderson’s latest, The Royal Tenenbaums, about a family of eccentrics who haven’t evolved, emotionally or stylewise, in decades. Esquire consulted Anderson on just how to achieve the various archetypal styles destined to sweep the nation. —LAUREN IANNOTTI

THE STYLE: Eli Cash (Owen Wilson)

IF YOU’RE GOING FOR: A writer and wannabe cowboy who grew up across the street from the Tenenbaum house.

WES SAYS: “There are elements of Cormac McCarthy here. Eli’s described as the James Joyce of the West in the film. But I think what he really wants is to be at cocktail parties at 21 with Richard Avedon and Mike Nichols. So his fringe leather jacket is from an L. A. boutique instead of being authentic Montana buckskin. He wears an LBJ-style Stetson at a little bit of an angle.”

COPY THIS LOOK: Custom-made suede fringe jacket; cotton-and-Lycra trousers ($350) by Gucci; vintage western shirt. (Completing the look are Eli’s $190 Neiman Marcus slippers, not shown.)

THE STYLE: Richie Tenenbaum (Luke Wilson)

IF YOU’RE GOING FOR: A tennis star who suffered a breakdown on the pro circuit and has since retired.

WES SAYS: “Richie’s always dressed as if he’s on his way to the tennis court, even though he hasn’t picked up a racket in about six years. He wears sunglasses, a camel-hair suit, and a Fila headband that Bjorn Borg wore. Fila had to dig up the headbands that they used to give to Borg.”

COPY THIS LOOK: Headbands discontinued, but similar models available ($14 to $18) from Fila; camel-hair suit ($950) hand-tailored by Vahram Mateosian at Mr. Ned, New York. (Not shown are Richie’s Bass Weejun loafers, $85.)

THE STYLE: Raleigh St. Claire (Bill Murray)

IF YOU’RE GOING FOR: A kooky neurologist married to Gwyneth Paltrow.

WES SAYS: “Raleigh has a Carl Sagan-slash-Oliver Sacks aesthetic going on with the colorful-turtleneck-and-blazer combination. The full gray beard and the John Lennon—style spectacles complete the look.”

COPY THIS LOOK: Acorn- colored corduroy jacket ($600) and wide-wale corduroy pants ($150) hand- tailored by Vahram at Mr. Ned, New York; purple merino-wool turtleneck ($188) by Paul Stuart. (Raleigh also wears Clarks desert boots, $90, not shown.)

THE STYLE: Royal Tenenbaum (Gene Hackman)

IF YOU’RE GOING FOR: A sleazy disbarred lawyer who is trying to win back his family 20 years after they kicked him out.

WES SAYS: “The look is based on Melvin Belli, the San Francisco lawyer who always wore great suits. It’s as if Royal had a fantastic wardrobe made for himself in about 1968 and things just stayed the same for him, including the Swifty Lazar glasses and the long cigarette holder.”

COPY THIS LOOK: Light-gray double-breasted, high-buttoned, oddly fitting suit ($850) hand-tailored by Vahram at Mr. Ned, New York; shirt ($295) by Charvet; custom-made tie by Brooks Brothers; leather shoes ($315) by Mephisto.

THE STYLE: Chas Tenenbaum (Ben Stiller)

IF YOU’RE GOING FOR: A former financial whiz kid who is currently a widower and father of two.

WES SAYS: “Chas was an entrepreneur as a child and made a fortune breeding dalmatian mice, so he always wore tailored suits then. Now he and his kids wear these bright-red Adidas tracksuits all the time for safety so in a crowd they can spot each other in a second.”

COPY THIS LOOK: Custom-made tracksuit by Adidas (accompanied by Puma sneakers, $60, not shown).